I will not sell a lot of this wine, but the love just dazzled me over a four day period. Every serious wine drinker wants a great white Burgundy, but not everyone wants to pay $75 a pop, so we search and search. I think I found a wine that hits the value spot, and it is from just south of the Cote d’Or, in the Cote Chalonnaise. Here the temperature is about the same as that hallowed region to the north, and soils are high in limestone, which is a good thing. The wine is the 2012 Andre DeLorme Mercurey Blanc, and it offers loads of flavor, style, and finish in the fine Burgundy style. And what is that style?...The warm CA sun creates a heavier bodied chardonnay, high in alcohol, and generally sweeter than Burgundy, and I love it. White Burgundy comes from an area that is cooler than California, and the soils here are way different than most plots in Napa and Sonoma. The result is a wine with lower alcohols, a nose that is generally more minerally and meal-y than the majority of what the Golden State does, and in most folk’s opinion are better with food.
That all said, this Mercurey has a golden color that is bright, and clear, and coats the glass nicely with some decent legs. But my god, the aromas are spectacular with scents of melon, malt, ripe apple, and pear, and they continued over the four days I tried the wine. (Truth be told, I would have rather just enjoyed this wine than try the other four I had to taste.) The flavors repeat the aromas, and there is the wash of cleansing acidity –not as flinty as Chablis but definitely mineral-like. The finish is a long time “stayer,” and gives a great deal of pleasure. The last night I fixed a simple dinner of scallops, sweet corn, and sliced roma tomatoes. I was living. The cost per bottle is $27, or $292 the case. The vintage is considered a very good one and I expect this wine to lay for another five years.
As I said at the beginning, I won’t sell a lot of this wine but if you have a special meal coming up, and want to dazzle with a fine 2012 white burgundy, this is a great choice. It surprised me.